Oceanography
The Science of the Seas - Understanding Earth's Ocean Systems
Course Overview
Oceanography is the interdisciplinary study of Earth's oceans, encompassing physical, chemical, biological, and geological processes. The ocean covers 71% of Earth's surface, contains 97% of Earth's water, and plays a critical role in climate regulation, carbon cycling, and supporting biodiversity.
71%
Earth's Surface
3,688m
Average Depth
1.335B
km³ of Water
~2M
Known Species
The Four Pillars of Oceanography
🌡️ Physical Oceanography
Studies ocean physics: waves, currents, temperature, salinity, density, and the exchange of energy and matter between ocean and atmosphere.
⚗️ Chemical Oceanography
Examines the chemical composition of seawater, biogeochemical cycles, and the ocean's role in global element cycling.
🐋 Biological Oceanography
Investigates marine life, ecosystems, productivity, food webs, and the interactions between organisms and their ocean environment.
🪨 Geological Oceanography
Studies the ocean floor: seafloor spreading, plate tectonics, marine sediments, and the geological history recorded in ocean basins.
Course Contents
Part 1: Introduction to Oceanography
Ocean basins, exploration history, and foundational concepts
Part 2: Physical Oceanography
Seawater properties, temperature, salinity, density, and light
Part 3: Chemical Oceanography
Seawater chemistry, dissolved gases, nutrients, and acidification
Part 4: Biological Oceanography
Marine ecosystems, plankton, food webs, and deep-sea life
Part 5: Geological Oceanography
Seafloor features, plate tectonics, sediments, and vents
Part 6: Ocean Circulation
Surface currents, thermohaline circulation, and gyres
Part 7: Waves and Tides
Wave dynamics, tidal forces, tsunamis, and coastal processes
Part 8: Climate and Oceans
Ocean-atmosphere interaction, El Niño, sea level rise
Part 9: Marine Resources
Fisheries, minerals, energy, biotechnology, and conservation
Part 10: Ocean Observation
Satellites, sensors, autonomous vehicles, and data analysis
Key Equations in Oceanography
Equation of State
$$\rho = \rho(T, S, p)$$
Density as function of temperature, salinity, pressure
Wave Dispersion
$$\omega^2 = gk\tanh(kh)$$
Relates wave frequency to wavenumber and depth
Geostrophic Balance
$$f \times \vec{u} = -\frac{1}{\rho}\nabla p$$
Coriolis force balances pressure gradient
Ekman Transport
$$M_E = \frac{\tau}{\rho f}$$
Wind-driven mass transport perpendicular to wind
Prerequisites
Mathematics
- • Calculus (derivatives, integrals)
- • Differential equations
- • Vector calculus
Physics
- • Fluid mechanics basics
- • Thermodynamics
- • Wave mechanics
Chemistry/Biology
- • General chemistry
- • Basic ecology
- • Earth science