Oceanography

The Science of the Seas - Understanding Earth's Ocean Systems

Course Overview

Oceanography is the interdisciplinary study of Earth's oceans, encompassing physical, chemical, biological, and geological processes. The ocean covers 71% of Earth's surface, contains 97% of Earth's water, and plays a critical role in climate regulation, carbon cycling, and supporting biodiversity.

71%

Earth's Surface

3,688m

Average Depth

1.335B

km³ of Water

~2M

Known Species

The Four Pillars of Oceanography

🌡️ Physical Oceanography

Studies ocean physics: waves, currents, temperature, salinity, density, and the exchange of energy and matter between ocean and atmosphere.

⚗️ Chemical Oceanography

Examines the chemical composition of seawater, biogeochemical cycles, and the ocean's role in global element cycling.

🐋 Biological Oceanography

Investigates marine life, ecosystems, productivity, food webs, and the interactions between organisms and their ocean environment.

🪨 Geological Oceanography

Studies the ocean floor: seafloor spreading, plate tectonics, marine sediments, and the geological history recorded in ocean basins.

Course Contents

Key Equations in Oceanography

Equation of State

$$\rho = \rho(T, S, p)$$

Density as function of temperature, salinity, pressure

Wave Dispersion

$$\omega^2 = gk\tanh(kh)$$

Relates wave frequency to wavenumber and depth

Geostrophic Balance

$$f \times \vec{u} = -\frac{1}{\rho}\nabla p$$

Coriolis force balances pressure gradient

Ekman Transport

$$M_E = \frac{\tau}{\rho f}$$

Wind-driven mass transport perpendicular to wind

Prerequisites

Mathematics

  • • Calculus (derivatives, integrals)
  • • Differential equations
  • • Vector calculus

Physics

  • • Fluid mechanics basics
  • • Thermodynamics
  • • Wave mechanics

Chemistry/Biology

  • • General chemistry
  • • Basic ecology
  • • Earth science