Part 7: Waves and Tides
Ocean Motion
Waves and tides are periodic motions that shape coastlines, drive mixing, and influence marine life. Wind waves are generated locally, while tides are caused by gravitational forces from the Moon and Sun.
Topics in This Part
7.1 Wave Dynamics
Wave properties, generation, propagation
7.2 Types of Waves
Deep water, shallow water, internal waves
7.3 Tidal Forces
Gravitational theory, equilibrium tides
7.4 Tidal Patterns
Diurnal, semi-diurnal, mixed tides
7.5 Tsunamis
Generation, propagation, coastal impact
7.6 Coastal Processes
Wave breaking, refraction, longshore drift
Wave Equations
Dispersion Relation
$$\omega^2 = gk\tanh(kh)$$
Deep Water Speed
$$c = \frac{gT}{2\pi}$$